Exploring Japan: Cities, Attractions and Unforgettable Moments

 

It was drizzling, and the Kyoto skies were overcast. I stood in awe, observing a humble young woman selling postcards of the infamous Kiyomizudera Temple. She didn’t have a shop; her only shelter was a large umbrella, big enough for three people, under which she sold her postcards. Back in 2003, during my visits to New Delhi and Agra, I remember vendors selling postcards featuring attractions like the Qutub Minar and the Taj Mahal. The idea was to share the beauty of the places you visited with your loved ones. But now, in 2024, people prefer capturing images on their phones or even making video calls to share their experiences. It seems so simple. So, what left me in awe? Despite the rain, and the apparent disinterest from passersby, this young woman’s energy never faded. She continued to smile and enthusiastically invited people to buy her postcards. Ideally, this shouldn't have surprised me, as it was my fourth day in Japan, and I had already encountered many amazing individuals.

AI generated image of a girl selling postcards in Kyoto

Ok, if that’s the case, how did I end up here?

It all started with my arrival at Narita Airport, Tokyo's second most important airport. Positioned outside the main city, its status as the secondary airport is either a cause or a result of its location. However, there are far more significant concerns than the reasoning behind Narita's ranking behind Haneda. For someone who found the Delhi metro railway network complex, the Tokyo metro system appeared absolutely bewildering. With its multitude of railway lines, ticket counters, platforms, and confusingly named stops, coupled with the rain, the experience was daunting for a solo traveller on their first international journey after a gruelling 16-hour flight, cramped in a middle seat. I approached a random counter and presented my destination to the attendant, who, in that moment, embodied the spirit of Japan for me. He printed out a map of the Tokyo railway system, marked the starting, transfer, and ending points with a marker, and did not stop there. He took the time to inquire about my itinerary, offering the best discounted fares for my entire trip, including round trips. It was an incredibly warm welcome, marking the beginning of what would be a remarkably smooth journey from then on. Upon the representative’s assistance, I arrived at my hotel, and it was still raining. Exiting the metro station, I found the city nearly deserted—it was 10 PM and bitterly cold. A police officer, apparently on duty, approached me with a warm smile, offering his help. I later discovered that my hotel was located near the office and residence of the Prime Minister of Japan, which perhaps explained his presence. After checking in and receiving my room card, I entered my room. Throughout my stay, not just on that first day, I inadvertently tested the hotel staff's patience by repeatedly locking myself out of my room with the card still inside and they never showed any sign of annoyance.

AI Generated image of a nice and helpful metro staff

I visited the Tokyo Sea Life Park the next day as the rain subsided, grateful for the sunny but cold day. It's nestled within Kasai Rinkai Park, where I had my first meal of the day—a sweet bun from a vending machine. There was also a Burger King, where I received my first Japanese-style apology from the staff for their lack of vegetarian options. Little did I know, this would be the first of many polite apologies, complete with bows and “sumimasen,” for not catering to my dietary preferences. Seeking guidance, I entered a tourist help centre, where a kind gentleman, with the aid of a translator, suggested "things to do."

The aquarium was a highlight, showcasing an array of fish—some brightly coloured, others large, and a few oddly shaped. The vastness of nature was awe-inspiring, though I felt uneasy about the invitation to touch some of the species. Persuaded by an employee who suggested it might be a "once in a lifetime" opportunity, I cautiously agreed to touch only the starfish, which seemed unhappy with the interaction. After spending two hours exploring, I inquired about a "no meat, no fish, no egg" meal at a food joint. A diligent salesperson, after scrutinizing the entire menu and its ingredients for several minutes, could only offer French fries, which I accepted.

I then hoped to ride the enormous diamond and flower Ferris wheel within the park, but it was unfortunately closed due to strong winds, as communicated by the ticket counter attendant with a simple "X" gesture. This was just the beginning of my introduction to Japanese body language. On my way back to the metro, I noticed an elderly lady determinedly retrieving her walking stick from the ground, having dropped it while attempting to photograph the non-operational Ferris wheel. She rejected everyone that offered to help her and grabbed the stick from the floor herself.

Kasai Rinkai Park

Then, I headed to Odaiba Beach, hoping to catch a ferry ride (locally referred to as a "seabus"). However, due to my unfamiliarity with the schedule and admittedly poor timing, I arrived at the ferry point five minutes after the day's last departure. From a distance, I watched enviously as people who had arrived just five minutes before me embarked on their journey aboard the beautiful ferry. Despite this, the view of the ferry from the shore was a consolation, and I was content to capture that sight. As I wandered in a random direction, I stumbled upon a miniature Statue of Liberty. Indeed, Tokyo houses its own small version of this iconic monument from New York. My walk also led me past a few pink trees, unusually popular for the season, and the visually striking headquarters of Fujifilm—a sight worth googling. 

Statue of Liberty and the Missed seabus

By the time I returned to my room, I had mastered pronouncing "KOKKAIGIJIDOMAE", the place where my hotel was located, the Japanese way- a small victory that filled me with pride. Although I missed out on two items on my to-do list—the giant wheel and the ferry—I remained optimistic. The unpredictability of travel holds a unique charm. After all, there's always a tomorrow to look forward to.

The Loyal Hachiko

On the same day, I decided to visit the Shibuya Scramble Crossing, a must-see destination for anyone searching for "Things to do in Tokyo." Guided by numerous directions and surrounded by countless people, I found myself there as the skies darkened—reportedly the prime time to experience Shibuya, according to locals. I seized the opportunity to make video calls to friends and family, sharing this unique experience with them while navigating the crossing with my limited internet connection. I crossed the road multiple times, amusing myself and checking to see if any police officers might be suspicious of my repeated crossings. I quickly realized many other tourists were indulging in the same harmless fun. After satisfying my curiosity and admittedly getting a bit bored with crossing back and forth, I visited the beloved statue of Hachiko, located near the crossing. I captured a photo with the statue, did some shopping, and then returned to the hotel, where I was greeted once again by another smiling police officer. After all my hotel was sandwiched between the Prime Minister’s office and residence.

The following day, I visited the Meiji Jingu Shrine, nestled in the heart of the Meiji Jingu Gardens. A grand Torii gate (traditional Japanese π shaped gates), the first I encountered in Japan, marked the entrance, symbolizing a transition to the sacred space. Inside, I was greeted by enormous drums and barrels filled with sake, traditionally offered to Emperor Meiji by its producers as a gesture of gratitude and respect. The shrine's serene and tranquil atmosphere provided a stark contrast to Tokyo's bustling streets and metros. This was my inaugural visit to a Shinto shrine, and the experience was captivating. I observed trees adorned with small wooden boards bearing the prayers of devotees. I also received a "certificate of arrival," a traditional acknowledgment of my visit, elegantly inscribed with an ink-brush pen.

Torii gate and the Sake Barrels at Meiji Jingu

My adventure continued in Shinjuku, a bustling market area known for its grand metro station with exits pointing in every direction. Venturing through a random street, I found myself surrounded by anime and manga, making some purchases for friends and family based on recommendations from a Japanese acquaintance met at a conference. The quest for Yukatas for the children in my family led to a humorous yet confusing exchange with a sales lady, due to the variety of sizes and genders for which I was shopping. Google Translate proved invaluable in navigating this interaction.

Upon returning to my hotel via a different route, I stumbled upon another beautiful Torii gate near my accommodation, previously unnoticed. This left me wondering, "How had I missed it the day before?” A quick tip for vegetarians: Convenience stores like Lawson, 7-Eleven, and FamilyMart offer bread with various spreads—luck might even land you a vegetarian option. Plus, these stores often have fresh fruit smoothies, perfect for a quick and delicious energy boost. And, I was lucky that day.

On my third day in Japan, I started off by winning the best presentation award at the conference, followed by a “green” Japanese lunch. With a newfound sense of accomplishment, I decided to explore one of Tokyo's must-visit spots: the Senso-ji Temple. Nestled in the lively streets filled with souvenir shops and kimono rental stands, this temple truly captured the essence of Japan that I had imagined. It had a serene vibe, similar to Hindu temples, with a main deity, smaller shrines, and a tradition of walking around the deity, all set against the backdrop of Tokyo's hustle and bustle. Wearing their traditional kimonos, many locals added to the temple's charm, making it not only a place of worship but also a perfect spot for photos. Unfortunately, amidst the exploration, I was battling a headache, probably due to lack of proper sleep and not eating well while trying to soak in as much of Japan as I could in a short time. That's when I stumbled upon "Amazake" sold by a lively couple outside the temple. This warm, slightly sweet rice drink turned out to be just what I needed to alleviate my headache a bit. Did I sound like a commercial for Amazake?- If so, let it be. It was worth it. This was when I observed a mother, slightly losing her cool with her child—a rare sight that showed even in a mostly calm society. After all, patience can wear thin.

Nearby, the tall Tokyo Skytree was visible, tempting me to walk towards it. But no matter how much I walked, it didn't seem to get any closer, a bit like chasing the "N" sign in a video game. It looked close, but as I walked towards it, it seemed I wasn't getting any closer. My poor understanding of the practical applications of trigonometry was evident at that moment.

Skytree as seen from the seabus station

On the way, I was fortunate to the ferry (seabus) I missed previously. I learned there was one last departure in 40 minutes. I was 5 minutes late on the previous day, but on this day, I was early by 40 minutes. Despite the counter lady's advice that visiting the Skytree and returning in time was impossible, I took it as a challenge, only to quickly see my mistake. I ended up enjoying the view from a beautiful bridge over the Sumida River instead, waiting for the ferry in a much calmer state of mind. As we boarded the seabus, the crew greeted us with traditional bows, setting a friendly and respectful tone for the journey. Their greeting was unfamiliar to me, not the "Konichiwa" I had come to recognize. The seabus's interior was cozy, arranged more like a café with tables and chairs, inviting passengers to relax and enjoy the journey. A terrace offered views of Tokyo from the water. As we approached bridges, the attendant would urgently instruct us to duck, due to the low clearance from some bridges, ensuring our safety. The likelihood of getting lost in the beautiful view is very high and hence the attender had to take some extra efforts in forcing us to duck.

The interior and the terrace of the seabus

As the journey came to an end, the crew's farewell was as heartfelt as their welcome. The same deep bows and unknown phrases bid us goodbye, a gesture I returned, causing a moment of amused confusion among them. The seabus experience was a delightful and I was happy that I didn’t miss out on it like I did a day earlier. While all this happened, the gigantic Tokyo Skytree was still visible at the same distance, but from a different direction. Seabus, where have you brought me?

Tranquil Banks of Sumida River

Experts and locals had mentioned that the Tokyo Skytree is particularly stunning when illuminated at night, and my seabus journey unexpectedly positioned me to appreciate this beauty. As the sun descended, I strolled along the banks of the Sumida River—the very river my ferry had navigated but now in the opposite direction. The setting was so enchanting that it could inspire poets to write several volumes of poetry.

After a 45-minute walk, I arrived at the base of the Skytree, greeted by a sizable queue. Yet, in Japan's efficient manner, the line moved swiftly, adhering to a first-in, first-out system. Soon, we were packed into an elevator that lifted us to the 350th meter in under a minute. The view from this height was breathtaking, offering a 360-degree panorama of Tokyo. The sights of the Senso-Ji Temple, my ferry ride, and the walk along the Sumida River were all visible from above, painting a vivid picture of my day's journey. At the Skytree, I stumbled upon a photo booth offering snapshots with the iconic Tokyo Tower (the other tall attraction in Tokyo which was 8 km away) in the background. Although visiting the Tokyo Tower had been in my plans, delays and fatigue had led me to reconsider. However, the chance to capture a moment with the tower behind me fuelled my enthusiasm. The photographer's energy was infectious, and I hope that her compliment of my pose was sincere, not just a formality. I further, I ascended to the 450-meter mark, the highest point for public viewing, absorbing the city's beauty from this unparalleled vantage point. The Skytree also featured a glass floor at the 340th meter, offering a dizzying view of the ground below, where people appeared as tiny as ants. After descending in the rapid elevator, I found myself on the ground floor at 9:00 PM, with the Tokyo Tower closing at 10:30 PM. Despite my tiredness and headache, and the prospect of a metro ride plus a 1+ kilometer walk, I pondered visiting the Tokyo Tower. It was shorter than the Skytree, which I had just experienced, but the thought of potentially missing out on seeing it, given the uncertainty of my return to Tokyo, prompted me to make the effort. "When will I be back in Tokyo again?" I thought. With that, I decided not to miss the opportunity and headed towards the Tokyo Tower.

Aerial View from the Skytree

Tokyo Tower was the most beautiful thing I had seen in Japan, standing out not just for its lights and structure but also for the emotional culmination it represented on my last day in Tokyo. Everything about it—the less crowded elevators, the blend of old-world charm with a hint of modernity, and the personal touch of a guided tour via phone and earphones—made it a contrast to the bustling Skytree. Pursuing this visit, despite my exhaustion, proved to be one of the best decisions of my trip. The tower's slower elevator, against the Skytree's rapid one, offered a moment to breathe and soak in the anticipation. The slight jolt mid-way, added a bit of adventure to the otherwise peaceful journey, which was later explained by the virtual guide as a “safety feature”.

At the top, being greeted by the minds behind the tower's construction was an unexpectedly delightful touch. Yes, their photos, suddenly started talking and welcomed me. Although technology like this is not a new thing in today’s world, it was delightful to be there. It felt like stepping into a piece of history, made vibrant with the magic of modern technology. The night view from the tower was nothing short of breathtaking. I had ventured nearly every which way by then, and my virtual guide cheerfully pointed out, "Look, there's the Tokyo Skytree over there, Meiji Jingu that way, Fujifilm headquarters in another," among other landmarks. Standing atop Tokyo Tower, the memories of the last few days cascaded through my thoughts, filling me with joy. Reflecting on my journey from this point, I felt a profound sense of gratitude. The decision to push through fatigue and make it to the Tokyo Tower was justified by the views and the personal journey it captured.

The most beautiful Tokyo Tower

Heading back to my hotel through the metro, which had become familiar now, carried me with a blend of satisfaction and a yearning not to leave. The prospect of departing from Tokyo pulled at my emotions, creating a bittersweet feeling within me. Tokyo Tower, in its majestic solitude, was a fitting farewell to a city that had given me so much in such a short time. Yet, the excitement for the next day's Shinkansen (the bullet train) ride to Osaka was a beautiful reminder of the journey's continuation. How could I possibly sleep with such anticipation?

First Glimpses of Shinkansen- The Bullet Train

The first bullet train to Osaka was scheduled for 6 am. I left my hotel on time, feeling confident in my newfound familiarity with Tokyo's metro system. This confidence, however, led me to hastily board the wrong metro, a realization that dawned on me only several stops later. It was already 6 am, and frustration mixed with self-accusation. Despite this, there was still hope, thanks to my unreserved ticket. Somehow, I navigated my way to Tokyo Station, finding myself amidst a sea of people moving in countless directions. The station, a nexus for various rail lines including metro, Shinkansen, and JR lines, quickly overwhelmed me. In my confusion, I approached a passerby, showing him my ticket to Osaka and explaining my difficulty. He simply said, “I go there,” which I took to mean he was heading to Osaka as well. Following his lead, he brought me to an office where he explained my situation to the station officers. After a polite bow to both me and the officers, he departed. Only then I understood he came only to help me. A helpful officer then directed me to my platform.

Then arrived the Shinkansen Nozomi, the fastest Shinkansen, the epitome of speed and efficiency, flying at 300 km/h. The smooth ride offered a fleeting glimpse of the majestic Mt. Fuji, a sight to cherish despite not being able to visit. In roughly 140 minutes, I traversed the 530 km to Osaka, arriving around 9:00 am. Upon disembarking, I remembered the advice of the locals about the etiquette of standing and walking on escalators in Osaka was the exact opposite of Tokyo's. In Tokyo, people stand on the left and walk on the right, but in Osaka, it's reversed. Unsure of the reason behind this difference, I simply observed and mimicked the behaviour of others to blend in. Osaka greeted me with a chill that was cooler than Tokyo and my jacket stood no chance. At the station, I grabbed a couple of peanut butter sandwiches and set off for Osaka Castle, eager to start exploring despite the cold.

Osaka Castle

The Osaka Castle, nestled in the heart of an extensive park, was a sight to behold from the moment I stepped off the nearest metro station. My walk through the park was cheered by encounters with various dog breeds, including the noble Japanese Akita and playful poodles, all enjoying a morning stroll. The sight of both children and adults delighting in a ride on a toy train through the park was a heartwarming reminder of the experiencing simple joys in life. Approaching the castle, I stopped at a convenience store for a coffee, unexpectedly unsweetened. The employee, with a polite bow and a soft "sumimasen," went out of his way to procure sugar from a nearby shop. It was a gesture of kindness that added warmth to the my morning experience. Exploring Osaka Castle, I discovered various floors dedicated to samurai tales and an area for trying on Samurai armour. The opportunity to dress up and take photos was intriguing, although there were fees for both wearing the gear and for a professionally edited photo. Two friendly elderly women managed the station, helping me select an armour set. Curiously, I asked, "Do I look like a Samurai?" but my question seemed lost in translation. As I struggled to take a selfie in the cumbersome gear, the official photographer kindly offered to take my photo with my own phone for free—a generous act that stood out to me. Grateful for this kindness, the third such encounter of the day, I accepted his offer. Though the professional photo service was costly, his willingness to help without charge left a lasting impression. Had the cost of taking a picture not been so high, I would have gladly paid for his kind gesture. After capturing this memorable moment, I ascended to the castle's top floor, where the I took the look at the panorama of Osaka. Descending, I met a couple with a German Shepherd in the park. With their nod, I reached out to pet the dog, though it seemed less enthusiastic than its owners. Expressing my thanks, I continued on, eager for my next adventure at the Tempozan Ferris Wheel, determined not to miss another Ferris wheel experience as I had in Tokyo earlier.

Samurai-in-charge, Osaka Castle

The journey from Osaka Castle to the Tempozan Ferris Wheel felt like the longest within a metro station, as I switched lines heading towards my next adventure. Arriving at Osakako Station, the Ferris wheel was just a short 5-minute walk away. My spirits lifted seeing it rotate, a promise of the views to come and I was at peace because I wasn’t not going to miss another opportunity to ride a ferries wheel. Eagerly buying my ticket, I was faced with the choice of transparent versus opaque cabins. Opting for the transparent one despite a 15-minute wait, my anticipation grew. To my slight disappointment, the cabin's floor wasn't as transparent as I'd hoped, but the panoramic views from the sides more than made up for it. The cityscape unfolded below me, showcasing a beautiful bridge, the bustling sea junction, and even a vegetarian restaurant—what a place to discover it, atop a Ferris wheel! The 15-minute ride offered a unique perspective of Osaka, allowing for some great photos and moments of appreciation. Descending from the Ferris wheel, I made walked into the newly spotted vegetarian spot, curious about the unexpected find.

Tempozan Ferris Wheel

Finding a vegetarian meal that offered a delicious assortment of tofu, vegetables, soup, and dessert was a highlight of my visit near the Tempozan Ferris Wheel. It was a relief and joy to finally have a proper meal in Japan, something I was eager to share with the staff. After paying, I used Google Translate, my trusty bridge between languages, to express my appreciation. I typed out my thanks, explaining how it was my first fulfilling meal since arriving in Japan, and how much I enjoyed it. I showed the translated message to the girl at the counter, saying, "This was my first proper meal in Japan, and it was wonderful. Thank you so much." The girl, who was apparently the owner of the restaurant, read my message and her eyes became teary, touched by the appreciation. Unsure how to respond to her emotional reaction, I added, "Thank you again, and could you please tell me how to get to Osaka Station?" even though I already knew the way. My question was more about changing the subject and lightening the mood than about needing directions. However, my reason for wanting to head back to the station was clear: Kyoto was calling, and it was time to explore my next destination.

Arriving at Osaka Station, I swiftly grabbed tickets for my journey to Kyoto. As I navigated through the bustling station, a helpful individual gestured towards a train, informing me it was bound for Kyoto. With barely 30 seconds to spare, I took a leap of faith and jumped into that train. Despite the assurance, there were no visible signs confirming the train's destination, and the announcements mentioned various stops, none of which I recognized. The coach was eerily empty, amplifying my anxiety. Desperate for confirmation, I attempted to check Google Maps, only to find no signal. In that moment, all my broader ambitions narrowed down to a single hope: that this train would take me to Kyoto. As the train began its journey, a sense of unease settled over me, my mind looping the silent appeal, "Please, let this be the right train to Kyoto."

Osaka Railway Station

It was then that a senior passenger came aboard. Seizing the opportunity, I asked, "Sir, Kyoto?" To which he responded, "No Kyoto." His reply sent a jolt of panic through me, but I quickly realized he might be referring to our current location, not the train's route. Seeking clarification, I asked again, "When Kyoto?" He reassured me, "After some time." His words brought immense relief, calming the storm of worry that had taken hold. As the journey continued along, I couldn't help but think about the curious naming of “Kyo-To”, the old capital of Japan. Was it merely “To-Kyo” spelled backwards by coincidence, or was there more to it? Brushing aside these musings, I reminded myself that there were more immediate experiences to cherish and to enjoy.

Kyoto's welcome was a charming scene of rain and thunder, compelling me to use my umbrella for the first time on this trip. As I observed the Kyoto Tower from across the Kyoto Station, it reminded me of my Tokyo Tower visit a day ago, albeit the two structures bore no resemblance. With limited time, my destination was set for the famed Kiyomizudera Temple, a mere 3 km from the station. The city bus, recommended by the tourist information center, came through the intensifying rain, with a live map inside indicating my stop. The unique practice of dropping coins as bus fare upon exiting presented a new experience for me in my first road travel experience in Japan.

Kyoto Tower

The crowd led me through streets lined with shops, each celebrating matcha in various forms - biscuits, ice creams, lattes, embodying the essence of this cherished green tea. Amidst this 15-minute journey to the temple, my path crossed with a young woman under the drizzle, her spirit undampened as she sold postcards of the very temple I was headed to. This is how I reached here, connecting back to the opening of my journey, where I stood in awe under the overcast Kyoto skies, admiring her energy and humble dedication.

The Matcha Streets of Kiyomizudera

Ascending to the peak of the temple, which sat atop a small hill, I was greeted by a scene of serene beauty, amplified by the rain's gentle touch. Kyoto, with its rain-draped elegance, left me with a trace of regret for not allotting more time to explore its depths. I made a silent promise to myself that Kyoto would be at the heart of my itinerary on my next visit to Japan. Capturing moments with my camera, I roamed through the temple's avenues, each step filled with wonder of how stunning this place must look during the cherry blossom season. Memories of the pink trees I had come across in Tokyo flashed through my mind, adding to the day's deep mood. Eventually, I made my way back to the bus stop, journeyed to Kyoto Station, and concluded my day, realizing I had experienced all I had planned except for a visit to the Inari Shrine in Kyoto.

Kiyomizudera Temple

Returning to Tokyo on the Shinkansen from Kyoto, I was too exhausted to appreciate the ride and fell asleep almost immediately. Despite the disturbance from a noisy group, my deep fatigue meant I barely noticed them. I arrived back in Tokyo around 9 pm, picked up some chocolates for friends and family despite the persistent rain, and headed to my room to pack for my 10 am flight the next morning. With everything prepared, including the round-trip tickets for Narita Airport that I had kept from my first day, I felt a sense of gratitude for the person I met at the ticket counter on Day-1. During the return flight, the kindness I experienced throughout my trip was echoed one last time by a Japanese air hostess who specially prepared curry rice for me, acknowledging my dietary needs. This thoughtful act was a fitting end to my journey, reflecting the consistent warmth and hospitality of Japan.

As my journey in Japan comes to a close, I find myself reflecting on the incredible beauty and depth of this destination. Despite the challenges I faced, particularly in finding food, Japan offered an abundance of experiences that enriched me in ways I had not anticipated. The majestic Tokyo Tower, the serene Osaka Castle, the spiritual calm of Kiyomizudera Temple, and the loyal presence of Hachiko — these landmarks stand as timeless sentinels of Japan's rich heritage and beauty. Yet, if given another chance to visit Japan, I know that while these iconic sights will remain, the experiences cannot be replicated. The people I met, the kindness I encountered, and the spontaneous moments of connection cannot be recreated. They were unique to this journey, irreplaceably woven into the fabric of my memories. So, my biggest takeaway from this trip is not just the breathtaking sights but the experiences themselves and the people who made them unforgettable. On any day, given another chance, I would return to Japan, not to relive the same experiences but to create new ones, knowing well that the beauty of travel lies in its unpredictability and the new connections it nurtures. And to anyone reading this, planning their next adventure, Japan offers not just places to see but experiences to be lived and remembered.

Until Next Time

P.S.: And then, back in Chennai, I spot a sign for "Authentic Japanese Pure Veg Sushi" Had to laugh—after struggling in Japan for vegetarian options, finding this at home? Irony at its finest.